Tokaj isn’t shy on acidity, but combine the mean and lean 2020 vintage and a place like Barakonyi, and we’ve got something so specific that it never gets blended into the sparkling wines. The winemaking is more or less the same as the 2019 (gentle pressing, barrel fermented, aged 6 months in 4-5 year old, 220-litre Zemplén oak barrels), but there’s over a degree less alcohol, one third of the residual sugar and over a 1 g/l more total acidity. There’s more than a subtle reminder that Furmint and Riesling share a parent grape. Nothing to do with the flavor, but rather the remarkable way in which it achieves balance with extreme elements. Drinks great now, but we’re quietly hoping we can pay our bills and hold onto a few cases for a few years too.

Tokaj isn’t shy on acidity, but combine the mean and lean 2020 vintage and a place like Barakonyi, and we’ve got something so specific that it never gets blended into the sparkling wines. The winemaking is more or less the same as the previous year (gentle pressing, barrel fermented, aged 6 months in 4-5 year old, 220-litre Zemplén oak barrels). This wine is a subtle reminder that Furmint and Riesling share a parent grape. Nothing to do with the flavor, but rather the remarkable way in which it achieves balance with extreme elements. Drinks great now, but we’re quietly hoping we can pay our bills and hold onto a few cases for a few years too.

This is the first time we’ve gotten our hands on this single vineyard. Nestled in between the villages of Tolcsva and Olaszliszka, Rány has been classified as a 1st Class Dűlő since 1798, and in 1876 the village of Olaszliszka listed it as a “principal” Dűlő. The current planting is around 60 years old and farmed organically. 5 or so different producers make wine from here and they are all remarkable. Despite the accolades, it’s been largely neglected until recently because it’s extremely rocky and difficult to farm. It destroys most tools and takes a ton of manual labor. Tokaj isn’t short on malic acid, but this site seems to channel and shape it better than most. It’s full of energy and screams Tokaj from every angle.

Because Hárslevelű is more loosely bunched than Furmint, it is less susceptible to Botrytis and is increasingly used on its own as a pure dry varietal white. Where many dry Tokaji wines are acid driven, Saroltaa’s wines are intensely mineral driven. Rich mouth feel, seemingly dry despite its residual sugar, and once given the chance to open up, incredibly distinct. There’s also an amazing sweet and sour quality that lends itself to foods that play off of the same theme. Although deeply concentrated, works well as an aperitif.

Because Hárslevelű is more loosely bunched than Furmint, it is less susceptible to Botrytis and is increasingly used on its own as a pure dry varietal white. Where many dry Tokaji wines are acid driven, Saroltaa’s wines are intensely mineral driven. Rich mouth feel, seemingly dry despite its residual sugar, and once given the chance to open up, incredibly distinct. There’s also an amazing sweet and sour quality that lends itself to foods that play off of the same theme. Although deeply concentrated, works well as an aperitif.

Sparkling wines are a growing category across the board in Tokaj. You’re never reaching for acidity here, and many sites are adjusting to climate change where botrytis is less and less consistent. There is also of course a faster turn around in the cellar compared to the naturally sweet wines. Sarolta has been tinkering with traditional method wines since 2009, and was among the very first to do everything in house herself. She opted out of taking the aromatic route with grapes like Hárslevelű or Sárgamuskotály, and has instead focused on Furmint. Furmint comes with the risk of having way too much lactic acid if picked too early or waiting too long and having way too much sugar. In addition to the pick date, she’s also very meticulous about destemming and removing all traces of stem. You say pedicel, I say peduncle… In any case, the base wine is never pumped and pressed very light and low. Only free run juice. Fermented in stainless steel, the secondary fermentation landed it at the upper end (11 g/l RS) of the Brut spectrum, but Furmint needs it. This is a great BTG option and tastes like Tokaj first and sparkling wine second.

Sparkling wines are a growing category across the board in Tokaj. You’re never reaching for acidity here, and many sites are adjusting to climate change where botrytis is less and less consistent. There is also of course a faster turn around in the cellar compared to the naturally sweet wines. Sarolta has been tinkering with traditional method wines since 2009, and was among the very first to do everything in house herself. She opted out of taking the aromatic route with grapes like Hárslevelű or Sárgamuskotály, and has instead focused on Furmint. Furmint comes with the risk of having way too much lactic acid if picked too early or waiting too long and having way too much sugar. In addition to the pick date, she’s also very meticulous about destemming and removing all traces of stem. You say pedicel, I say peduncle… In any case, the base wine is never pumped and pressed very light and low. Only free run juice. Fermented in stainless steel. This is a great BTG option and tastes like Tokaj first and sparkling wine second.