2017 Demeter Zoltán Furmint Kakas
Notes & Pairings
Zoli acquired the Kakas vineyard in 2004 which happened to coincide with his second vintage making dry wines despite making sweet wines since 1996. Apart from the Veres Dűlő, no other site has more trial and error than Kakas for dry Furmint. A decade ago, these wines were formidable. 14.5-15% alcohol, crazy acidity and bone dry. This brings us to the 2017 vintage and the first time we’ve ever been able to get some. The acidity is certainly still there, but the balance between the 5 or so grams of residual sugar and the 13.5% of alcohol to frame it out all emphasize Zoli’s ability to understand the place and pick at exactly the right time. There’s also a covered structure in the middle of the terraced vineyard with a grand table. Zoli invites winemakers from all over Tokaj (and beyond) to taste each other’s wines, commune about the appellation, argue, and set goals. Plato’s quotation on the back of the bottle sums up his position well, “csak tökéletes dolgok szolgálhatnak mértékül.” The direct translation is “only perfect things can serve as a measure,” but it’s better understood as perfection only lives in the realm of thought. If you ever meet Zotlán, this is exactly where conversations lead. 106 cases produced.
