Ekološka kmetija Valentan
Štajerska, Slovenia
They started planting PIWI grapes to let their children play and eat freely on their land. As Metka put it, “We live from our farm.”
The People
We ended up with a little extra time in our schedule in the Maribor region of northeastern Slovenia on our Spring 2022 trip. Attempting to thwart the algorithm or be swayed by social media nonsense, we just pulled up Google maps and started scrolling around. Adventures on the virtual wine route. Eventually our cursor landed on “Ekološka kmetija - vinotoč Valentan,” about a 15 min drive from Maribor in the village of Vodole. Basic due diligence ensued. EU certified organic – check. Working with PIWI grapes – check. Mixed ag farm – check. No incriminating news stories – check. Instagram: eight followers and zero posts – check. And on and on… They did have a Facebook page with a contact email. After a couple quick back and fourths the appointment was made. No hype, no expectations and no pressure.
Metka and Simon met us as we pulled up to their home and immediately headed out to the vineyards. They have 20 hectares of land, but only 4 are committed to vines. The rest are wild forests, fruit and nut trees, vegetable gardens, grains and animals to name a few. Along with their two children, Aleks and Filip, and grandparents, the whole family works and subsists on the farm. As Metka put it, “We live from our farm.” In addition to hosting large groups, they also sell their produce, milled grains (buckwheat, spelt, wheat, millet), jams, pumpkin seed oil, ciders, vinegar, and so on at markets in the capital and locally in Štajerska.
Vineyards
Certified organic since 2010, it wasn’t about chasing the natural wine trend or seeking out exporters, but the health of their family and neighbors. No other agricultural crop in the EU receives more pesticides per capita than vineyards.
They started planting PIWI (Moscaris and Souvignier Gris) grapes in 2016 for the same exact reason - less spraying, less petrol, less soil compression, keeping labor costs down, and letting their children play and eat freely on their land. Making the top 10 in German words never to break through in the states, “Pilzwiderstandsfähige Rebsorten” or PIWI basically translates to “fungus resistant grape varieties.” These are not to be confused with GMOs or Hybrids. These are bred Vitis Vinifera and have been an area of study since the 1890s when the goal was to defeat phylloxera. PIWIs are basically a sped up version of what happens in nature. And while the Souvignier Gris is something we’ll get into later, it is far from the only thing making Valentan a compelling estate. We are also delving into old vine Renski Rizling (Rhine Riesling), Sauvignon Blanc, Laški Rizling (Welschriesling) and Modra Frankinja (Kékfrankos/Blaufränkisch).
The soil is super rich in marl resulting in impossibly stony soils. It’s difficult to imagine this being a vineyard before planting as the photo illustrates. However, once the high-density vines get established, the vines become remarkably tolerant. Surrounded by wild forest, other crops and animals, the biodiversity contributes to immunity as well. Metka and Simon have influenced a number of their neighbors to convert to organics and lead classes for children as well. Under vine cultivation is key along with natural cover crops and little to no tilling. One thing worth noting is that they tend to pick late and are not afraid of botrytis. They are certainly not in the pick early for pH camp. They want ripe developed flavors and their farming is a testament to being able to do so.
Winemaking
On the winemaking front, they keep things pretty simple. Oak and Acacia for wood and stainless steel for some of the primary fermentations and settling before bottling. They do not use temperature control, rack minimally, are careful to not overexpose to oxygen, but are by no means hyper reductive either. The only addition is SO2 with total levels ranging from 15-35ppm. Skin macerations are in open vats and tend to be between 3-10 days for most wines. There’s always a freshness even though it’s backed up with some serious structure.
Photo Gallery
Download all photos (zip, 35 MB) →Pumkpin harvest at Valentan
Vineyards and forest at Valentan
Rainbow made of Souvignier Gris
Marl soil before planting
The cellar
At Valentan, everything is homemade and grown
- Red · Blaufränkisch
- ABV
- 12.59%
- RS g/l
- 2.5
- Acidity g/l
- 5.84
- Red · Blaufränkisch
- ABV
- 11.5%
- RS g/l
- 0.3
- Acidity g/l
- 5.73
- White · Souvignier Gris
- ABV
- 13.8%
- RS g/l
- 2.5
- Acidity g/l
- 5.8
- White · Riesling
- ABV
- 12.5%
- RS g/l
- 0.2
- Acidity g/l
- 5.17
- White · Sauvignon Blanc
- ABV
- 14.9%
- RS g/l
- 1.1
- Acidity g/l
- 3.93
- White · Laški Rizling
- ABV
- 12.3%
- RS g/l
- 1.4
- Acidity g/l
- 5.43
- White · Riesling
- ABV
- 12.2%
- RS g/l
- 4.2
- Acidity g/l
- 6.07
| Wine | Type | Grapes | ABV | RS g/l | Acidity g/l | Tech sheet |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Modra Frankinja 2021 | Red | Blaufränkisch | 12.59% | 2.5 | 5.84 | PDF ↓ |
| Modra Frankinja 2023 | Red | Blaufränkisch | 11.5% | 0.3 | 5.73 | PDF ↓ |
| Rainbow Berg 2021 | White | Souvignier Gris | 13.8% | 2.5 | 5.8 | PDF ↓ |
| Renski Rizling 2023 | White | Riesling | 12.5% | 0.2 | 5.17 | |
| Sauvignon Blanc 2018 | White | Sauvignon Blanc | 14.9% | 1.1 | 3.93 | PDF ↓ |
| Schlossberg Laški Rizling 2019 | White | Laški Rizling | 12.3% | 1.4 | 5.43 | PDF ↓ |
| Schlossberg Renski Rizling 2019 | White | Riesling | 12.2% | 4.2 | 6.07 | PDF ↓ |
