DANCH & GRANGER SELECTIONS
Importer of Memorable Wines from the New Old World of Eastern and Central Europe
Importer of Memorable Wines from the New Old World of Eastern and Central Europe

Maurer, Szabadka, Serbia

We aspire to be as natural and authentic as possible in the production of grape and wine, and the wines born in this spirit tell a lot about their production site, yet every drop of wine contains our family’s history, and the last 3000 years.” — Oszkár Maurer

Winery map

At a Glance

http://www.maurer.rs/
Szabadka
Mild and temperate
Sand, volcanic and sedimentary rocks
100-140m
Sandy hills and also steep slopes facing the Danube
Mézes Fehér, Bakator, Szerémi Zöld, Riesling, Furmint, Kadarka, Pinot Noir
6.5 hectares
Organic
Natural
Oszkár Maurer
Oszkár Maurer

The people

The Maurer family has been producing wine for four generations. It was during the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy in the 19th century that they moved from Salzburg to the southern part of the Kingdom of Hungary. They now farm 16 acres of land, including 6 acres in the Serbian wine region of Szabadka directly south of the Hungarian-Serbian border, and 10 acres in the Fruška Gora mountain district in Syrmia, Serbia, located 40 miles away from Belgrade and bordered by the Danube River to the north.


Vineyard

Vineyards

The vineyards are planted with old local varieties such as Mézes Fehér, Bakator, Szerémi Zöld. In the Szabadka wine region, vines are more than a hundred years old. The oldest Kadarka was planted in 1880 and is one of the oldest in the world. These vines are typically cultivated by horse and man power.

Kadarka
Old Kadarka vine

The other part of the estate is in the historic region of Szerémség (Syrmia). Some ninety million years ago, the Fruška Gora mountain in Syrmia was an island in the Pannonian sea. The slopes of this old formation made up of volcanic and sedimentary rocks have been covered with vineyards, orchards and forests for about 3000 years. Today, this is an almost intact natural environment with an outstandingly rich ecosystem. The climate is sub-mediterranean and continental with a beneficial influence of the nearby Danube. One vineyard planted with Riesling is just 160 feet from the river. Maurer is the only winery producing natural wine in the region but fortunately, there is an increasing number of followers.

The best lots have been replanted with the old native grape varieties such as Szerémi zöld (Syrmia Green), Bakator, Mézes fehér (Honey Whiter), Kövidinka (Ston Siller), Furmint, Riesling, Sárgamuskotály (Muskateller), Kadarka and Kékfrankos (Blaufränkisch). The winery also grows international varieties including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinot Noir.


In the cellar

Winemaking

All fermentations are spontaneous (primary and secondary) without the use of any additives apart from SO2 at bottling for select some wines. Maurer basically has two tiers: Rege and Maurer. The Rege wines have low SO2 (30-50ppm) and are unfiltered (Kövidinka, Corvina, Kadarka). The Maurer line is zero compromise with zero additions of any kind (Kadarka 1880, Kadarka Nagy Krisztus, Bakatororange, Fodor Olaszrizling). His barrel regiment is all used (mostly Hungarian oak) and only racked once to tank for bottling.
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MaurerCrazy Lud Red 2019
Red Wine , Organic
Blaufränkisch; Cabernet Sauvignon;
12%
0.74 g/l
5.73 g/l
The Crazy Lud label is always a moving target and heavily dependent on what the vintage can deliver. The 2019 is 60% Kékfrankos and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon both picked early, destemmed, macerated for 7 days, and then fermented and aged in Hungarian oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered, it’s basically a “Siller” in that it’s in between a light red and rosé, dry at 12%, and best with a slight chill.

MaurerFodor Olaszrizling 2019
White Wine , Organic
Olaszrizling;
12.5%
0.51 g/l
5.2 g/l
This 52-year-old and small berry clone bush trained 1 hectare vineyard was Oszkár’s great-grandmother’s dowry. He also remembers his grandfather saying that Olaszrizling needs time with the skins in order to survive. Back then, there were no additions to the wines and Oszkár is keeping with both traditions. 8 days on the skins, all barrel, and no additions. Oszkár is also fond of describing wine as grease and motor oil for the soul even though he prefers only man and horse in the vineyard. This wine encapsulates the farming and the cellar from these older generations.

MaurerFurmint 2019
White Wine , Organic
Furmint;
12.5%
0.62 g/l
5.43 g/l
This is another slight departure from the previous vintage. It’s still open vat fermented and aged in large Hungarian oak, but there’s more skin maceration and a stronger influence from botrytis. The vineyard is in the Srem facing Croatia, so it’s much warmer here than in both Tokaj and Somló. This is a great lens into the region from what Oszkár argues is the birthplace of Furmint before making its journey north in order to escape the advancing Ottoman armies.

MaurerMusCat 2018
White Wine , Organic
Muscat à petit Grain;
13.5%
0.5 g/l
5.01 g/l
Locally known as Tamjanika, planted in the volcanic, limestone and clay of the Remete vineyards just a mere 200-300 meters from the Danube River. 4 days of skin contact, all barrel, unmistakable Muscat aromatics, great acidity, and enough bitterness to balance it all out. The winemaking doesn’t dominate over grape and place.

MaurerOrion 2018
White Wine , Organic
Mézes Fehér;
12.5%
1.03 g/l
5.43 g/l
Mézes Fehér, literally, “honey white” is able to contract a ton of botrytis without dropping acidity. The 2018 harvest had around 20% botrytis infection, fermented on the skins for 7 days and aged in large Hungarian oak. Tons of dried fruit, caramelized nuts, tea, honey and plenty of acid and tannins to be an absolute goes-with-everything at the table kind of skin contact white. This is a genus of the skin contact world that isn’t found anywhere else.

MaurerSkin Contact Kövidinka
White Wine , Organic
Kövidinka;
11.5%
0.74 g/l
9.22 g/l
Planted in 1925 in what looks like pure beach sand, the combination of a super resilient local grape variety and low disease pressure make it one of the best price to quality ratio wines from the area. We’ve heard it described fondly as green apples meets rich mineral spa water, but with 5 days of skin contact, it almost smells like a dead ringer for Spanish cider. With 8 months in 500L barrel, there’s an additional spice and concentration despite being 11% alcohol.