DANCH & GRANGER SELECTIONS
Importer of Memorable Wines from the New Old World of Eastern and Central Europe
Importer of Memorable Wines from the New Old World of Eastern and Central Europe
Grape Varieties
GRAPE VARIETIES
Dunaj
Dunaj
The Dunaj grape is seemingly incongruent between what you smell and what you taste. When we first encountered it, we assumed it was some sort of hybrid or PIWI grape. The Muscat-like aromas, deep Teinturier color, grip, acidity and alcohol didn’t seem possible with low intervention winemaking. As it turns out, it’s a crossing between Muscat Bouchet and Blauer Portugieser which was then crossed with St. Laurent. Its birth dates back to the early 1950s, but it didn’t become officially registered until the late 1990s. Late budding, late ripening, resistant to botrytis and frost, it certainly fits the bill for being applicable in Southern Slovakia.
Furmint
Furmint
Based on DNA analysis, Furmint is most likely an offspring of Gouais blanc, making Furmint a half sibling to several grape varieties such as Riesling, Chardonnay, and Gamay.
A late ripening grape variety, it is prone to botrytis and shows itself in a myriad of different ways whether in extended skin contact, sparkling, dry, under flor, distilled and certainly in sweet wines.
It is widely grown in the Tokaj region, but also found in Hungary’s Somló, Austria’s Styria and Burgenland, Slovakia, Serbia, Slovenia, Croatia, South Africa and California.
In Tokaj, Furmint shows a high degree of genetic diversity with several clones and color mutation including the pink skin Piros Furmint, which may indicates that the grape originated in the region.
Grünspitz
Grünspitz
Some argue that it originated in Bihar and Arad in Romania, others argue it comes from modern day Serbia in the Syrmia region. Regardless, there is very little of this grape anywhere in the world. On the vine, it ripens late and has dense clusters and thick-skinned berries. Aromatic and acid rich, it can easily produce sparkling, longer macerated, and everything in between.
Juhfark
Juhfark
Not to be confused with Csomorika (Lamb's Tail), Juhfark (Sheep’s tail) is a nowadays rare white grape mostly found in Hungary with a little in Slovakia and Romania as well. With roughly 200 hectares in total plantings, over 100 are in the Somló appellation. The clusters are long, tightly packed and curve a little at the end hence the sheep’s tail moniker. Prone to botrytis, it’s fairly neutral in flavor, so it shows remarkable fidelity to place despite often needing long elevage and or residual sugar to find balance when young. Planted in volcanic soils, it communicates the salt, smoke and hard mineral water like nothing else.
Kadarka
Kadarka
The parent grapes are thought to be Papazkarasi originating from the border between Bulgaria and Turkey and Skardarsko which is native to the border area between Albania and Montenegro. Ottoman wars pushed Kadarka up into the Hungarian Kingdom and spread into modern Romania, Slovakia, and Croatia. Outside Hungary, you can also find it in Bulgaria, Macedonia, Albania and Romania. Within Hungary, with the help of the Pécs University Research Institute, winemaking families locating old vines, grafting and raising them in nurseries, a fast growing number of producers have helped bring back Kadarka from near extinction. This was a grape that once covered over 60,000 hectares in the Hungarian Kingdom, but was whittled down to less than 400 hectares by the end of Communist rule in the early 1990s. Today there’s roughly 1000 hectares in total. Late-flowering and ripening, it can be pushed to contract botrytis, has the acidity for sparkling wines, and can make ageable reds. The range of this grape is staggering.
Malvazija Istarska
Malvazija Istarska
After Graševina, this is the second most planted grape in Croatia and due to the pliable borders and varying occupying forces, the range of this grape is vast. It’s genetically quite distinct from other Malvasias like Del Lazio and Di Candia, and only has some distant relationship to Malvasia di Lipari and Bianca Lunga. And while Malvasia’s homeland is arguably Greece, DNA analysis of 28 grapes linked to Grecian Malvasia show zero relationship to Malvazija Istarska. Suffice to say, this is an Istrian grape. It’s also super versatile in the cellar. You can make sparkling, skin macerated, reductive, and sweet versions that all work. The classic flavor markers are salt, olive oil, and green almonds.
Pošip
Pošip
The Island of Korčula is the spiritual home of Pošip even though it can be found in other parts of Northern Dalmatia. It’s also claimed to be first discovered here. There’s a monument dedicated to it. The Island's winemaking history dates back to the Illyrians, but had its longest run as a part of the Venetian Empire for nearly 400 years until the late 1700s. As an island in Southern Dalmatia, phylloxera came rather late in the late 1920s. The iron rich red soils in Smokvica are in a valley with the ocean a mere 7-10 min drive to the south and steep forested hills to the north. Humidity is an issue, so having the right exposure and protection from these coastal winds is crucial. Pošip is also high in sugar, high in acidity, early ripening, thin skinned, and can be very high yielding. We’ve tasted Pošips above 16% alcohol with RS and still acidity to spare. It thrives with some maceration, has plenty of refreshing flavor when direct pressed, and can even make elegant sweet wines.
Refošk
Refošk
Refošk is in the Refosco family and gets tricky across borders. In Slovenia, Refošk is often synonymous with Teran. On the Italian side, Refosco d’Istria and Terrano are both in fact Teran, and yet most Croatians believe Teran and Refošk are distinctly different. In any case, according to Piquentum, Refošk principally differs from Teran in that it ripens later, produces more sugar, and has less acidity. That said, less acidity than Teran simply implies less than your typical Kabinett Riesling or Tokaj Furmint. There’s plenty of fruit and structure to find a balance.
Teran
Teran
Early mention of the Teran grape dates back to the early 1300s, and it’s often confused as Refosco Dal Peduncolo Rosso. This is incorrect. While Refosco Dal Peduncolo Rosso does have some amazing sibling/parent relationships to grapes like Teroldego, Lagrien, Corvina Veronese and Rondinella, there’s nothing to do with Teran. That said, Teran is a part of the larger Refosco family and goes by Terrano and Cagnina in Italy. UCD even planted what it thought was Terrano (the Italian spelling) in Amador back in the 1880s, but that turned out to be Mondeuse Noir. Livia Drusilla, wife of Roman Emperor Augustus, was said to favor Teran and lived to the then impossible old age of 82. In addition to longevity and other claims we can’t legally make, other medicinal uses include giving to women after childbirth to help with blood loss and to men as an aphrodisiac. Teran has you covered on the whole circle of life.
Vitovska Grganja
Vitovska Grganja
Believed to be a grandchild of Prosecco Tondo crossed with Malvasia Bianca, it is related but not identical to Vitovska. The clusters are smaller and the skins a little thicker for instance. There’s also quite a bit of Vitovska planted between Italy and Slovenia, but many believe barely 20+ hectares of Vitovska Grganja. Herbal, lightly aromatic, and often with plenty of acidity, it’s typically bound for extended maceration and aging, but with climate change of the risks of being picked too late, it turns out the acidity and phenolic ripeness are perfectly suited for sparkling wines as well.
Vranac
Vranac
Vranac translates to the “Black Horse” in that it somehow thrives in the super rocky Karst soils and hot conditions. Mostly grown in Montenegro, it’s also found a solid home in Bosnia & Herzegovina, Macedonia and even a little in Croatia. It’s also an offspring of Tribidrag (aka Zinfandel/Primitivo) which also hails from the Balkans as well. High yielding with super high tannin content coupled with high sugars, it also holds onto acidity given the unevening ripening.
Zenit
Zenit
This is a crossing between Ezerjó and Bouvier. Like a number of other “Z” crossings like Zengő, Zeusz, and Zéta, it was created in the early 1950s by Ferenc Király. Mostly inspired by Greek Gods, Zenit also likely refers to “apex.” Quite humble indeed. It grows in dense, thick skinned clusters and retains acidity. It’s also quite susceptible to botrytis despite reopening fairly early. There’s roughly 700-800 hecates in total in Hungary spread across the appellations Balatonboglár, Bükk and Etyek-Buda.