Gottfried is very paced, formal, and soft-spoken on first impression. Then you see his art that adorns the cellar. My favorite is an explosion of color with “I am on fire” written in bold. Then you head out to the vineyard where he’s planted to over a 100 different grapes from scratch with a philosophy of “freestyle wine growing” and following his own self imposed Charta. Then you taste his red and white field blends and bringing historical grapes like Furmint back into the fold and they are in indeed also on fire. He is exponentially more than his initial impression and we are proud to be importing these into the US for the very first time with this shipment. The Lamprecht family owns what was once the Vorau Abbey until it closed at the end or the 19th Century as feudal law and many other politics changed. The monks did grow vineyards on the same slopes, but the land has been without grapes for many decades. In 2006 Gottfried starting planting block by block until reaching 9 hectares and has been certified organic from the start. He studied horticulture at the University of Vienna, but is more guided by the field blend tradition that was lost in the appellation as opposed to making pure mono varietal wines that is far more prevalent. Being able to start from scratch and control every element himself is what makes this producer special apart from the wines being delicious of course.
Gottfried is not without a dry sense of humor. He labels his wines grown on his own Buchertberg hill as “ABC” (Appellation Buchertberg Contrôlée). The soil here is mostly weathered sandstone, silt, gravel, and “opok” (clay, marl). The reds prefer the opok while the whites thrive in the sand and gravel. Given the official Vulkanland Appellation, there is volcanic activity (basalt) as well, but not dominant. As mentioned, he has been organic since 2007 and keeps his yield at or less than 45 hl/ha. Cover crops are wild and the place is buzzing. The Pannonian climate is similar to southern Burgenland, but overall PH is typically lower. What really sets Gottfried apart is the extensive field blend. Here is a list of what’s currently planted: Adelfränkisch, Affenthaler, Augster Gelber, Auxerrois, Bettlertraube, Blaue Frankentraube, Blauelbling, Blauer Arbst, Blauer Elbling, Blauer Hängling, Blauer Sylvaner, Blauer Wildbacher, Blaukölner, Bouquet-Silvaner, Bourguignon, Elbling, Frühburgunder, Frühe Magyartraube, Furmint, Gelber Langstieler, Gelber Traminer, Gewürztraminer, Goldriesling, Grauburgunder, Grüner Sylvaner, Grüner Veltliner, Grünfränkisch, Hartblau, Heunisch Rotgestreift, Heunisch Schwarz, Honigler, Jubiläumsrebe, Kleinberger Kerner, Kleinedel, Kleiner Burgunder, Morillion, Muskat-Gutedel, Muskateller, Neuburger, Ortlieber, Peloursin, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir, Piros Furmint, Riesling, Roter Elbling, Roter Gutedel, Roter Hänisch/Pamid, Roter Heunisch, Roter Traminer, Roter Veltliner, Rotgipfler, Sauvignon Blanc, Scheurebe, Schlehentrauben, Schwarzurban, Süßschwarz, Tauberschwarz, Trollinger, Weissburgunder, Weiße Orleans, Weisser Gutedel, Weißer Heunisch, Weißer Kadarka, Weißer Lagler, Weißer Räuschling, Weißer Tokayer, Weißer Veltliner, Welschriesling, Zierfandler, and even some Zinfandel.
The winemaking is fairly simple. Most wines are destemmed and crushed. He avoids being overly phenolic, so there’s very little forced extraction or lengthy skin contact. Typical maceration is between 36-40 hours. All fermentation is spontaneous, he uses used 300L to 600L oak (40% coopered locally), and extended lees aging is key (9-18 months). The only addition is SO2 at bottling, usually around 20ppm total.
Typically, Gottfriend thinks that Furmint would like it a little warmer and drier than on the Buchertberg. On the cusp! However, given climate change, he considers this a solid investment and has historical lineage in the region. His 2018 is bone dry, zero botrytis, full malolactic, and has a crazy chalky texture. Completely unlike anything from Tokaj, Somló, Northern Serbia or Južnoslovenská.
PRODUCER: Herrenhof Lamprecht
GRAPE COMPOSITION: Furmint
CLIMATE: Continental (hot summers & cold winters)
SOILS: Weathered sandstone, silt, gravel, clay and marl
RESIDUAL SUGAR: 0.2 g/l
ACIDITY: 5.7 g/l