Just a few hundred meters from the Hungarian border and just East of lake Neusiedl, lies the small town of Pamhagen. Brothers Erich and Michael Andert have been Demeter Certified since 2003 and their whole property is buzzing with life. Nearly everything on the property seems edible. Walking around the vineyard you can find large glass jars of fermenting vegetables or open a random door by a shed and find meats smoking and curing. Herbs of all sorts (Michael is a certified herb educator) hang from the rafters and there are countless tinctures littering the cellar floor. Erich and Michael are also consummate hosts. The dinner salad from exclusively from their cover crops, local pumpkin seed oil for dressing, and every following dish comes with simple preparation done to perfection. There’s an attention to detail, not overworked or made too complicated, and always with the best ingredients. The joy of sharing a table with them is the same as sharing a bottle of wine. Upon our last visit they were gearing up to host children from the Vienna International School to promote Demeter certified products, harvest and cook with the children, and ultimately raise awareness and money for charity. This mindset speaks to everything that they do. As Michael told us, “We go inside the life.”
Right out in the middle of their 4.5 hectares is giant chicken, goose, and duck coop. Just a few meters from there, there’s an area devoted to sheep. All are used for bolster the biodiversity of the property, supply fertilizer, and of course add to future dinner menus. Horns from years of biodynamic preparations are fixed along the fence line and hides of wild boars hang nearby to deter the deer. Depending on the year, the most potent spraying they have to do is horsetail tea.
All wines are hand harvested, sometimes destemmed, open vat fermentation, always native yeast, no temperature control, little to no racking, and everything is aged in oak barrels. Wines are bottled without filtration and total SO2 is about 15-20ppm. No other additions are made. Inside their traditional underground stone cellar, there is no electricity. The wines are free to evolve and develop without interference.
This wine holds a special place in the family. The name comes from a dialect that pulls from their Hungarian heritage and essentially translates to their family farm. The grapes are stomped by foot, 10 days of skin contact, no racking, and aged in 400L oak barrels. No additions of any kind. This wine feels ionically charged. It manages to carry the skin contact, not lose sight of the grape, and carry the signature of their land all in one. Limited quantity.
GRAPE COMPOSITION: 100% Grüner Veltliner
CLIMATE: Continental (hot summers & cold winters)
SOILS: Loess and loam
MACERATION & AGING: 10 days of skin contact and aged in 400L oak barrels
RESIDUAL SUGAR: 1 g/l
ACIDITY: 5 g/l